Let’s Cook: Remembering Mimi Sheraton

Mimi Sheraton, an-the-mark New York Times Food Critic and cookbook author, passed away on April 7, in Manhattan. I came to know of Sheraton at the age of eight because of Staci Hennes of Underwood. In our home of five boys, there was one of us continuously delivering newspapers. We delivered The Minot Daily News, Bismarck Tribune, and The Grit. The Grit ended up being the newspaper we delivered the longest. We considered it “something new under the sun” because it featured so many cool articles from all over the world. We also liked the idea that it only had to be delivered once a week compared to daily newspapers.
Tom actually came up with the idea of delivering The Grit because he figured out we could make just as much money by only delivering once week. We had an established route of 35 steady and kind customers and only one had a mean dog. At Christmastime we received gifts from our customers — mainly candy or a token of cash. Mrs. Staci Hennes always gave a book and a box of chocolate-covered cherries. I must admit when Tom received the “The Gilligan’s Island” book I was a bit jealous, but he let all of us read it. In time, I had the route and for Christmas, true to tradition Mrs. Hennes gave me a book and a box of chocolate covered cherries. I raced home to unwrap the book to discover it was a cookbook!
Now Mrs. Hennes was cool; she always took time to visit, and she figured out what a paperboy liked. She worked as a cook at the Park Inn Cafe and was good at it. She knew by the number of times that I stopped there to eat that I was a foodie — especially after I asked for her recipe for homemade tartar sauce. Right she was. The title of the compact book was “Hors d’oeuvres and Appetizers” by Mimi Sheraton. I had not a clue who Sheraton was but by the end of the summer, I had made several of her listed recipes. The book was marketed by Hallmark, and I figured that Mrs. Hennes more than likely purchased this book at Hatches Hallmark in Bismarck. This book allowed me to explore the world of food and travel with Mimi Sheraton. It has been stated that she calculated in 2013 that she had eaten 21,170 restaurant meals professionally in 49 countries. She wrote numerous cookbooks, did countless restaurant reviews and was featured in many magazines. Sheraton made an early impression on me, as I too started writing reviews on the Park Inn Cafe in Underwood, Highway 83 Cafe in Coleharbor, Green Acres Cafe in McClusky, and Schell’s Coffee Shop in Mercer. I did note that the Park Inn had wonderful glass-top tables that featured Florida sand and sea shells. The original owners, the Cromers, were from Florida and brought the East Coast beach inland. What a great way to entertain children until their hamburger and fries arrive!
While in college I used to stop by various banks that would have The New York Times in the lobby — not for financial news, but to merely to look at her writings. She was clearly brilliant in her approach to reviewing restaurants as she would often dine in disguise. She looked chic in various wigs, sunglasses and signing using aliases for reservations. She marveled at restaurants that delivered white glove treatment to “just a regular customer” or so they thought! If service was tilted toward only the rich and famous, the restaurant received their just rewards. How fun would a job like this be? She had a great memory and didn’t need to take notes. She also had an eye for decorating. Her glance may have appeared casual, but be assured it was recording details, colors and design exuberantly.
I have come to learn that her dining was not only in climate-controlled and well-appointed restaurants. She discovered little-known places that had a spirit for good food. She also took time to dine at hospitals, schools and prisons. I have always marveled at the time and care it takes cooks and chefs to prepare a tasty meal, and it was perhaps true with Sheraton as well. I love the fact that she was able to convey to her readers that making something elegant, beautiful and even stunning — whether it was deviled eggs, soup, or decorating an entrance — requires a passion, inspiration and effort. Each of these is a journey that requires care and a flourish that will bring forth things and experiences that take us out of our regular world. Sheraton also had a fine knack for reminding us that the joy we might be looking for is right in our backyard. The inside cover of my cookbook starts with this quote “Great is the art of beginning.” Longfellow. I had not done hors d’oeuvres and appetizers but reading this had me on the way.
My first recipe to try was “Eight Ways to Devil an Egg.”
Deviled Egg Basic Recipe
6 hard-cooked eggs, shelled
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon prepared mustard
Salt and white pepper, to taste
Paprika or capers for garnish
Next came several suggestions to add this basic recipe
1 tablespoon of ham, and a pinch of curry powder
1 tablespoon of cheddar cheese, 2 tablespoons of sour cream and sprinkle the tops with crumbled, crisp bacon
1 teaspoon anchovy paste to yolks and garnish with capers. (My mom and I were the only ones to try these along with Gladys Rust. I had to ask Gladys what the heck is anchovy paste!)
2 teaspoons crumbled Roquefort or Bleu cheese and 2 tablespoons our cream. Garnish with chives or olives.
Two thin slices of smoked salmon, 2 tablespoons sour cream, 1 teaspoon grated onion
Omit mustard and add 1 tablespoon minced fresh green herbs such as parsley, chives, dill either alone
Or in combination, with the total not being more than 1 tablespoonful.
2 teaspoons of red or black caviar, 1 tablespoon sour cream and dash of lemon juice
1 teaspoon of black olives, capers and anchovies pureed or finely chopped.
I am still looking forward to trying the last two someday!
A coworker in Activities, Teresa Cook, showed me a new way to color the white of the egg to make it look more festive. She created these for Easter and the residents and guests enjoyed their colorful nature.
Colored Egg Whites
Food coloring of choice
1 teaspoon of vinegar to 1 cup of hot water
Hard-boiled egg whites with yolks removed and set aside for filling.
In a glass container place 1 cup of hot water, 1 teaspoon of vinegar and several drops of liquid food coloring stir until blended. Let this cool slightly before placing egg white in liquid. Leave egg white in colored water for 10 minutes or until desired color is reached. Remove with spoon and allow to drain and dry on paper towels. Once ready fill with favorite egg yolk mixture. Garnish as desired.